Friday, June 19, 2020
Panel discussion about light pollution and dark skies
[d]arc thoughts: Episode 4 | Light Pollution & the Dark Sky Movement from [d]arc media on Vimeo.
Thursday, June 11, 2020
Loss of the Night app video tutorials
Android:
iOS:
Big thanks to Aaron, Kai, Ryan, and Vinit for producing these videos!
Tuesday, June 9, 2020
Removing natural light from nighttime satellite images
Jacqueline Coesfeld has developed a method to correct monthly Day/Night Band data from @eogatpayne to center areas with no light at zero. Link to the paper: https://t.co/mzcVSoUZ1o— Christopher Kyba (@skyglowberlin) June 9, 2020
Image shows the result for a random location in the Pacific Ocean. Thread 👇🏿 pic.twitter.com/pmLDdXkJAN
Tuesday, March 24, 2020
Street view with the lights out
I got home after an evening event and didn't realize at first why there was such a different quality to the ambience of our neighborhood. It took a moment to realize that due to a film shoot, the city had turned off all the lights on the main streets. I walked the dog, said "Hi" to neighbors walking down the street, just as normal and safe as a typical night. I snapped some photos. I set the exposure to try and capture the visual quality of the experience (1sec f/3.5 at ISO 800). The lights came back on later in the night and I shot with the scene with the same settings.
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This work by Ken Walczak is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License. |
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This work by Ken Walczak is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License. |
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Animated version |
In an area with significant skyglow, I have often found that you actually have the better vision in unlit areas (e.g. parks, rooftops) than on lit city streets. The reason alleys in big cities are dark is not generally because there isn't enough light for you to see, but because of either glaring lights creating more contrast than your visual system can deal with, or else because you've left a really bright street and your eyes haven't had a chance to adapt.
In case you didn't see it already, check out the other amazing photo of clouds glowing over the Chicago skyline Ken sent me a few months ago.
Wednesday, February 26, 2020
How not to light a staircase
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This work by Christopher Kyba is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License. |
These lights combine both the wrong direction (shining horizontally rather than downward) with being extremely bright, which makes them terribly glaring, and makes it harder, rather than easier, to safely ascend the staircase. (Right after I took this photo, I misjudged the position of the first step and stumbled slightly, even though I was trying to shield my eyes from the glare).
What could be done instead? One interesting application I have seen is LEDs installed on the underside of a handrail. Unfortunately, I don't have any photos of a really good execution of this. Here is an example of an attempt that didn't quite work out:
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This work by Christopher Kyba is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License. |
It's better than the example above, but is still a problem, because it's still too bright near the lamps. What pedestrians need is accent illumination that helps them separate the stairs from the surroundings. When you have most of the scene lit with ~0.1 lux from skyglow and other distant light sources, and you then put 50 lux directly under the handrail, you've now created a 500:1 contrast. Your visual system doesn't deal well with that level of contrast, and it makes it harder to see.
For areas that are not brightly lit, moonlight provides a good benchmark. A typical full moon night is around 0.1-0.2 lux, so if you're illuminating a fairly light concrete, you really shouldn't need any more than that.
Update (October 20, 2021)
I found a great example, also in Potsdam. Check out the lights at the front steps of the Ernst von Bermann Clinikum (hospital):
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This work by Christopher Kyba is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License. |
The photo doesn't do it justice. It's a beautiful installation, there is absolutely no glare, it's not too bright, the color is warm, and in real life the area between the stairs is also sufficiently illuminated by light from the surroundings. I hope I get a chance to return to these two locations with a luxmeter and a DSLR camera sometime soon to do a more proper comparison.
Monday, December 2, 2019
Second action of the Nachtlicht-BüHNE outdoor lighting project
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This work by Markus Schönrock is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License. |
- Find a friend
- Print out our paper form
- Have a look at the form from start to end, so you that you are familiar with the different categories and attributes of the luminaires. (For example, we also count illuminated windows, which might at first sound crazy, but actually does not take that long and turns out to be really important.)
- Choose a starting and ending location (typically a single street from one intersection to another).
- Get a pencil or pen, and then take the form and meet your friend at the starting location.
- Write down the time you started.
- Start walking slowly down the street, recording ALL the light sources you can see. We find it works best for one person to spot the lights, and the other to record which type they are.
- When you reach your stopping point (eg. the next intersection), write down the time you finished
- Optional: do another street! (But with a new form, please!)
- When you get home, type your observations into this Excel form, and save it.
- Record the coordinates of your segment on the form in decimal degrees (WGS84, for example 52.5163N, 13.3777E). You can find the coordinates using Google maps or Openstreetmap.
- Send us your data and your thoughts about this paper version to helga.kuechly@gfz-potsdam.de by January 5th 2020.
- Most of the time we count the number of luminaires we see – if a street lamp more luminaires (e.g. a candle tree with two arms) we count each of them individually (so two)
- Sometimes counting is not enough in categories where the luminaires vary greatly in size (e.g. illuminated signs outside of shops). In this case, we have three size categories, and you count the times the luminaire fits into them (e.g. a sign roughly as big as two hands counts as two hand-sized signs)
- Full cutoff luminaires: this is a lighting fixture that projects all of its light in a downward direction – it can sometimes be tricky to tell if a street light is very high up. Here some hints to help you with determining if a light is full cutoff:
- The light source is fully inside of the fixture, it does not hang below it.
- The glass below the lamp is entirely flat, not curved
- The fixture is directed straight downwards (not tilted at an angle)
- No light should shine above the height of the lamp (if a nearby house or tree is lit at a level higher than the lamp, it’s not full cutoff)
- Normal versus bright: humans cannot reliably estimate small differences in brightness, but we can identify particularly glaring light sources. So we want to record separately light sources that seem particularly bright to you compared to the rest in your street segment (e.g. the lighting at a zebra crossing, an extraordinarily bright shop window or sign etc.)
Excel form
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This work by Markus Schönrock is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License. |
Zweite Aktion des Außenbeleuchtungsprojekts Nachtlicht-BüHNE
[English version here]
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Dieses Werk von Markus Schönrock ist lizenziert unter einer Creative Commons Namensnennung 4.0 International Lizenz. |
Hier kommt die genaue Anleitung:
- Finde eine*n Freund*in
- Druckt unser Papierformular aus
- Sieh Dir das Formular von Anfang bis Ende an, damit Du mit den verschiedenen Kategorien und Eigenschaften der Leuchten vertraut bist. (Zum Beispiel zählen wir auch beleuchtete Fenster, was sich zunächst verrückt anhören mag, aber eigentlich nicht so lange dauert und sich als sehr wichtig erweist.)
- Wählt einen Start- und Endpunkt (typischerweise eine einzelne Straße von einer Kreuzung zur anderen).
- Hol Dir einen großen Notizblock und einen Stift, und treffe dann Deine*n Freund*in am Startort und schreibe die Zeit auf, die Du begonnen hast.
- Gehe langsam die Straße hinunter und nehme ALLE Lichtquellen auf, die Du sehen kannst. Es funktioniert am besten wenn eine Person die Lichter aufnimmt, und die andere aufzuzeichnen, welcher Typ sie sind.
- Wenn Du Deinen Haltepunkt erreichst (z.B. die nächste Kreuzung), notiere Dir die Zeit, in der Du fertig warst.
- Optional: Mache eine weitere Straße!
- Erfasse die Koordinaten Deines Segments in Dezimalgraden (WGS84, z.B. 52.5163N, 13.3777E). Du kannst die Koordinaten z.B. über Google Maps oder Openstreetmap finden.
- Wenn Du nach Hause kommst, gib Deine Beobachtungen in dieses Excel-Formular ein und speichere es.
- Senden uns Deine Daten und Deine Gedanken zu dieser Papierversion bis zum 5. Januar 2020 an helga.kuechly@gfz-potsdam.de
- Meistens zählen wir die Anzahl der Leuchten, die wir sehen - wenn eine Straßenlampe mehrere Leuchten hat (z.B. eine Armleuchte mit zwei Armen), zählen wir jede von ihnen einzeln (also zwei).
- In Kategorien, in denen die Leuchten sehr unterschiedliche Größen haben (z.B. Lichtwerbung außerhalb von Geschäften), reicht die Zählung manchmal nicht aus. In diesem Fall haben wir drei Größenkategorien, und wir zählen die Anzahl der Kategorie, in denen die Leuchte passt (z.B. ein Leuchtschild, das etwa so groß wie zwei Hände ist, zählt wie zwei handgroße Zeichen).
- Voll abgeschirmte Leuchten: Dies ist eine Leuchte, die ihr gesamtes Licht nach unten projiziert - es kann manchmal schwierig sein zu erkennen, wenn eine Straßenleuchte sehr hoch steht. Hier einige Hinweise, die helfen, festzustellen, ob eine Leuchte voll abgeschnitten ist:
- Die Lichtquelle befindet sich vollständig im Inneren der Leuchte, sie hängt nicht darunter.
- Das Glas unter der Lampe ist völlig flach, nicht gebogen.
- Die Vorrichtung ist gerade nach unten gerichtet (nicht schräg geneigt).
- Kein Licht sollte über die Höhe der Lampe hinaus leuchten (wenn ein Haus oder Baum in der Nähe auf einem höheren Niveau als die Lampe beleuchtet wird, ist es keine vollständige Abschaltung).
- Normal versus hell: Der Mensch kann kleine Helligkeitsunterschiede nicht zuverlässig abschätzen, aber wir können besonders grelle Lichtquellen identifizieren. Deshalb wollen wir separat Lichtquellen aufzeichnen, die im Vergleich zum Rest des Straßenabschnittes besonders hell erscheinen (z.B. die Beleuchtung an einem Zebrastreifen, ein außergewöhnlich helles Schaufenster oder Schild usw.).
Papierformular
Excel-Formular
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Dieses Werk von Markus Schönrock ist lizenziert unter einer Creative Commons Namensnennung 4.0 International Lizenz. |